Most RV problems that ruin a camping trip were visible in the driveway before you left. A cracked seal, a soft tire, a corroded connector. Stuff you could’ve caught with a 30-minute walk-around and a flashlight. This system-by-system checklist walks you through exactly what to look at on your towable RV before you hook up and head out. It also tells you when to stop and call a shop, because some things aren’t DIY territory.
A quick note: this checklist is written for towable RVs (travel trailers and fifth wheels), not motorhomes. The hitch, brake and electrical checks reflect that.
Why This Check Matters More in Michigan Than Most Places
Michigan’s freeze-thaw cycle does things to a trailer that steady climates don’t. Potholes open up every spring and hammer tires, wheel bearings and suspension components harder than typical highway miles. Lake-country humidity in Ottawa and Muskegon counties corrodes electrical connections, brake components and frame steel between trips, even if the rig never moves.
Then there’s where you’re camping. Campground access roads around Grand Haven, Holland and Muskegon run on sand, gravel and two-tracks. That’s a different kind of stress than pavement. And if you’re headed to a DNR state forest site or a rustic campground with no hookups and no nearby shop, a problem found there is a problem you solve yourself or pay to tow out of.
The first trip after winter storage is the highest-risk outing of the year. Batteries discharge. Propane lines crack. Brake actuators seize. Roof seals shrink. According to the RV Industry Association’s 2025 demographic profile, there are now over 11.2 million RV-owning households in the U.S., with a significant percentage being first-time buyers. Many of those owners haven’t been through a post-storage inspection before. If that’s you, this list is especially worth your time.
Hitch and Coupler
Confirm the coupler is fully seated on the ball. Lift the tongue slightly after latching to verify it doesn’t release. Don’t assume it clicked.
- Check the ball size. The hitch ball size must match the coupler rating stamped on the coupler head (1-7/8″, 2″ or 2-5/16″). A mismatch can look fine and fail under load.
- Torque the hitch ball nut. A 2-5/16″ ball typically requires 300+ ft-lbs of torque at the shank nut. We’ve seen balls that pass a visual check but spin under load because nobody torqued them after installation.
- Inspect safety chains. Look for cracked links, worn hooks and attachment points on both the trailer and the vehicle. Cross them under the tongue so they catch the coupler if it separates.
- Weight distribution hitch (if equipped). Verify the head angle and spring bar tension are set correctly. A loose or improperly loaded WDH shifts tongue weight to the rear axle and makes the tow vehicle squirrely.
Red flag: Any play in the coupler after latching, cracked or stretched chain links, or a ball that shows visible wear or corrosion at the shank. Stop and get it inspected before you tow.
Tires & Wheels
- Cold tire pressure. Check against the sidewall rating or the manufacturer’s placard. Not last month’s reading. Trailer tires lose pressure sitting.
- Sidewall condition. Inspect for cracking, bulging or weathering. Trailer tires age out before they wear out. Look for the DOT date code (four digits on the sidewall: week and year of manufacture) and replace tires older than 5-6 years regardless of tread depth.
- Tread depth. Check across the full width of each tire. Uneven wear points to an alignment or axle issue.
- Lug nuts. Torque them if you have a torque wrench. Trailer wheels work loose more readily than vehicle wheels.
- The wheel itself. Look for cracks, bent flanges or rust streaking from lug holes.
Spring pothole season is hard on trailer tires and wheels. If you’ve run any rough roads since your last trip, add a close sidewall inspection. If you need wheel bearing service, that’s a good time to have the tires looked at too.
Red flag: Any sidewall bulge, cracking deeper than surface checking, a tire over 6 years old, or lug nuts that turn by hand. Don’t tow on a questionable tire.
Brakes and Axles
NHTSA has issued hundreds of recall notices for travel trailer and fifth wheel brake and axle components over the past several years, citing failure modes from seized actuators to improperly assembled drum brakes. The database is current as of 2026. Brake checks aren’t optional.
Brake Controller & Breakaway System
- Test the brake controller’s manual override. Apply it at low speed in a safe area and confirm you feel the trailer brakes engage. This is the most commonly skipped check on towable RVs.
- Check the breakaway battery. Pull the pin and verify the trailer brakes lock up. A breakaway battery that won’t hold a charge is a failed safety device.
- Inspect the breakaway cable. It should be attached to the tow vehicle, not the trailer frame. If it’s attached to the trailer, it won’t trigger in a separation.
- Verify brake controller gain. The setting should match your trailer’s loaded weight.
Wheel Bearings & Axle Condition
- Rock test. Grab each wheel at 9 and 3 o’clock and try to rock it. Any play indicates worn bearings.
- Heat test. After a short drive (2-3 miles), carefully touch the hub center. Warm is normal. Hot means the bearing is failing.
- Axle inspection. Check axle tubes for cracks, bends or rust scale. Look at the spring hangers and U-bolts for cracking or looseness.
Frost heaves and gravel roads accelerate bearing wear. If you haven’t had bearings serviced in the last season, consider a pre-season inspection.
Red flag: Any wheel play, a hub that’s too hot to touch after a short drive, or visible axle damage. A bearing that seizes on the road can damage the spindle, which is a much more expensive repair than catching it early.
If your brake controller test or breakaway check turns up anything uncertain, West Michigan Towable Solutions can run a full RV brake service inspection before your trip. Better to know in the driveway than on the highway.
Electrical & Lights
- Walk the trailer. Plug in the trailer connector and have someone work the controls while you check running lights, brake lights and both turn signals. Use a trailer light tester if you’re alone.
- Inspect the 7-pin connector on both ends for corrosion, bent pins or cracked housing. Corroded pins cause intermittent brake and turn signal failures.
- House battery voltage. A fully charged 12V battery reads 12.6V or above. Anything under 12.0V at rest means it’s not holding a charge.
- Battery terminals. White or blue buildup increases resistance and can prevent the brake controller from getting a clean signal.
Lake-country humidity is hard on trailer connectors and battery terminals. If the rig sat outside over winter, plan on cleaning connections before the first trip.
Red flag: Any light that doesn’t work, a connector with bent or corroded pins, or a battery that won’t hold a charge. Driving with non-functional brake lights or turn signals is a safety and legal issue.
Exterior & Roof
- Walk the roofline and inspect all seams, vent bases and antenna mounts for cracked or separated sealant. Michigan’s freeze-thaw cycle breaks down lap sealant faster than UV alone.
- Press on the roof surface around any seam or penetration. Soft spots indicate water intrusion and potential delamination underneath.
- Check all slide-out seals for cracking or tearing. A damaged slide seal lets water in every time it rains.
- Inspect exterior walls for bubbling, soft spots or separation at the corners.
- Look at the entry door seal and all window frames for gaps or dried-out weatherstripping.
Red flag: Any soft spot on the roof, visible delamination on the sidewalls, or sealant that’s cracked all the way through. Water damage compounds quickly and is expensive to repair.
Propane System
- Check tank level and inspect the tank valve, regulator and visible line connections for damage or corrosion.
- Apply soapy water to all connections with the gas on. Bubbles mean a leak. Do not use an open flame to check for leaks. (This should go without saying, but we’ve heard the stories.)
- Inspect the regulator for cracks or moisture intrusion. Regulators that sat through a Michigan winter can fail on the first use.
- Test propane appliances (furnace, water heater, range) before you leave home, not at the campsite.
Red flag: Any bubbles at a connection, a regulator that looks cracked or corroded, or an appliance that won’t light after multiple attempts. Don’t travel with a suspected propane leak.
Water System
If the rig was winterized, confirm the water heater bypass valve is returned to the normal position before you fill the tank or connect to city water.
- Run the water pump and check under the sink, at the water heater and at any exposed line connections for drips. Freeze damage often shows up as pinhole leaks at fittings.
- Check the water heater anode rod if it’s been more than a year. A depleted anode accelerates tank corrosion.
- Verify the fresh tank drain valve is closed before filling.
Red flag: Any drip at a fitting after the pump runs, or a water heater that won’t light on either gas or electric. A cracked fitting that’s dripping now will be a full leak under city water pressure.
Interior Safety Gear
- Test the smoke detector and CO detector. Replace batteries if either is more than a year old.
- Locate and inspect the fire extinguisher. Check that the gauge needle is in the green zone and the pin and tamper seal are intact.
- Verify the LP gas detector (mounted low near the floor) powers on when you turn on the 12V system.
- Check that emergency exit windows open freely.
Red flag: Any detector that doesn’t respond to the test button, a fire extinguisher with a needle in the red, or an LP detector that doesn’t power on. These are non-negotiable before you sleep in the rig.
When You Find Something: DIY Fix or Shop Call?
Owner-serviceable without a shop visit:
- Tire pressure adjustment
- Battery terminal cleaning
- Light bulb replacement
- Sealant touch-up on minor cracks
- Water heater bypass valve reset
- Propane connection tightening (if no leak present after recheck)
Bring it in:
- Any brake issue (controller, breakaway, actuator)
- Wheel bearing play or heat
- Axle damage
- Roof soft spots or delamination
- Propane leak that doesn’t resolve after tightening
- Electrical shorts or non-functional brake lights after connector cleaning
A pre-season inspection at a shop costs a fraction of a roadside breakdown. And if you’re not sure which category something falls into, that uncertainty is itself a reason to have someone look at it before you tow.
West Michigan Towable Solutions handles RV inspection and repair in West Michigan from our shop in Spring Lake, serving RV owners across Grand Rapids, Muskegon, Holland and Grand Haven. If your pre-trip walk-around turns up a red flag, or you want a professional set of eyes before the season starts, give us a call or stop in. We’ll tell you what it needs.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I inspect my RV before trips?
Every trip, not just the first one of the season. Issues develop between outings. Tires lose pressure, connections corrode and seals dry out. The full checklist takes about 30 minutes and is worth running each time. A more thorough professional inspection once a year (ideally before the first trip of the season) catches what a walk-around misses: bearing condition, brake actuator function and frame integrity.
What’s the most commonly missed check on a towable RV?
The breakaway battery and brake controller test. Most owners confirm the trailer is hooked up and the lights work, but never test whether the trailer brakes actually engage. A brake controller that reads fine on the display but doesn’t apply the brakes under load is a real failure mode. It only shows up when you test it.
Do I need a professional RV inspection before every camping trip?
No. A professional inspection once a season (or after any hard trip, storage period or suspected damage) is the right interval for most owners. The walk-around checklist in this article is what you do yourself before every trip. The shop visit is for what the walk-around can’t tell you: bearing condition, brake actuator function, frame integrity and anything that requires getting under the trailer.
What should I check on my RV after it’s been in winter storage?
Run the full checklist above with extra attention on roof seals and seams (freeze-thaw cracks them), the water system bypass valve position, battery charge and terminal condition, propane regulator and line connections, and brake actuator function. Winter storage is when most deferred problems show up. Plan on more time for the first-trip inspection than a mid-season check.